Cuff



0.. A TTORNE ys CUFF' I. L. PHILLIPS Filed Sept. 14. 1921 filler threads.

Patented Oct. 27, 1925.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ISAAC L. PHILLIPS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO

VAN HEUsEN rnonuc'rs, INC.,

Application filed September 14, 1921.

To @ZZ whom. t may concern-f Be it known that I, ISAAC L. PHiLLirs, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York city, in the county of New York, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Cuffs; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full. clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to improvements in cuffs and particularly to soft folding cuffs which require no starch.

Ordinary soft cuffs are made up of a plurality of separate plies of relatively soft fabric so that the finished cuff has little inherent stiffness. In folding the cuff the outer layer or ply of fabric is subjected to consideraliile strain because of the construction employed. The fabric at the edge of the fold where most of the we-ar comes is thus least capable of resisting wear and consequently the cuff quickly becomes frayed.

The object of the present invention 1s to avoid the difficulties mentioned and to provide an improved cuff, and means for attaching it to the shirt whereby the cost is reduced and a more satisfactory garment 1s made available.

In accordance with the invention the cuff is made of a multiple ply interwoven fabric, such as a two ply or three ply fabric or a two ply fabric interwoven with intermediate This fabric has a sufficient body to present a pleasing appearance and proper degree of stiffness without the aid of starch. The stiffness is retained permanently and the cuff does not therefore become flimsy when in use as most soft cuffs do. A fabric such as that described does not fold readily and, in order to permit folding, it is preferably woven with a fold portion along a line of increased flexibility. Along this line the cuff will readily fold as is desired in preparing the cuffs. y

To permit the easy attachment of the cuff to the shirt and to provide fp'r a finished edge which requires no bindingend presents the same appearance on both sides when the cuff is finished, the cuff is woven with the plies separated preferably at all of the four edges. The separated plies at one edge may thus be turned in and stitched to the sleeve A CORPORATION OCE DELAWARE.

CUFF.

Serial No. 500,611.

of the shirt while the plies at the remaining edges are turned in and stitched to provide a finished edge.

The material may be woven in strips or sheets with alternating interwoven p-ortions forming the body of the cuffs and separated ply portions which when the cuffs are separated may be stitched in the manner described to provide the finished cuffs.

The several objects of the invention will be more clearly understood by reference to the following specification and accompanying` drawing in which: Y

Fig. 1 is a view in perspective of the finished cuff attached to the shirt sleeve.

Fig. 2 is a sectional view of the cuff and shirt fabric shown in Fig. 1,

Fig. 3 is a view in elevation of the cuffmaterial illustrating the separated plies at the edges thereof, and

Fig. 4 is a plan View of the fabric as it comes from the loom.

The shirt 5 may be of any suitable material such as is customarily used in shirt manufacture. This is usually a thin fabric with little inherent stiness. The cuff 6 is made of multiple ply interwoven fabric which because of its construction has the proper degree of stiffness. otherwise matches the material of the body of the shirt. The fabric illustrated is a two ply fabric with intermediate filler or gut thread layer. In the drawing the outer plies are illustrated conventionally at 7 and 8 and the filler threads at 9.

The cuff material as prepared has separated plies 10 at its upper edge and similar separated plies 11 at the remaining edges, the ller and interweaving threads being here omitted. At the folding line 12 the filler and interweaving threads are similarly omitted so as to provide a line of natural flexure upon which the material is readily folded to form the cuff.

As will be observed by reference to the drawing, the cud' is attached to the shirt sleeve by folding the separated plies 10 and stitching with the edge 13 of the sleeve fabric disposed therebetween. A neat and pleasing joinder of the cuff and shirt sleeve is thus accomplished. Before joining, the remaining separated plies 11 may be folded in and stitched as indicated at 14 to provide the finished edge of the cuff which presents sur@ z Preferably itl the same appearance at both sides and may therefore be turned when soiled to present a fresh surface.

The cuffs illustrated are provided with the usual button-holes 15 so arranged that they are in alignment when the. cuff is folded on the line of flexure. The invention is adapted as well to the manufacture of nonfolding cuffs, the structure and arrangement being identical with that described eX- Cept for the omission of the line of fiexure and the extra width of the folding portion. Even with single thickness of multiple ply fabric the cuff will have a pleasing and finished appearance more comparable to that of a stili.l cuff than to an ordinary soft cuff.

It will be particularly noted that the invention described avoids the necessity of binding strips or thickened edgesresulting from folding of the heavy fabric. 5 The provision of the separated plies at the edges enables the production of a cuff with edges of not substantially greater thickness than the body of the cuff.

Various changes may be made in the structure and details of finish of the cuff without-I departingfrom the invention or sacrificing any of the advantages thereof.

I claim:

l. A cuff fabric 4composed of multiple ply interwoven fabriohaving therein a series of narrow longitudinal and transverse tubular portions which indicate the outline or edge portions of a plurality of cuff blanks and along which tubular portions the cuit blanks are cut out; the main portions of thel cuff blanks being multiple ply interwoven fabric and the tubular portions being of suiicient width to provide a divided edge suitable for edge binding purposes on each of the @utf edges formed by cutting along the said tubular portions.

2. A multiple plyl interwoven cuff fabric having therein 'a series of. narrow longitudinal and transverse vtubular portions which forni the long and end edges respectively of a plurality of cuff blanks, the said longitudinal tubular portions being spaced apart a distance equal to twice the width of a single cuff and a narrow zone or portion of increased flexibility running parallel to the longitudinaltubular portions half way between each two consecutive tubular po1- tions; the said transverse and longitudinal tubular portions being of sufficient width to provide a divided edge on each of the edges of the cuff blanks formed by cutting along the said tubular portions. Y

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

ISAAC L. PHILLIPS. 

